HOW TO ATTACH THE BORDERS - WITH MITERED CORNERS 

Before adding the borders, ensure your project is squared up and all edges measure the same length (or the opposing edges measure the same as each other for a rectangle). 

Side border lengths:  

To work out the length measurements for the side borders, start by adding the two widths of the inside and outer borders together (example: 1¼” + 2½” = 3¾”), now multiply this new number by 2 (example: 3¾” x 2 = 7½”). 

To work out your final length measurement, measure along one side edge (longer edge) of the joined blocks and add this measurement to the new number (example: 19” + 7½” = 26.5”).

This is the length you should cut your side borders.  

End border lengths:  

Repeat the same method as above (the widths of the borders are the same as the sides). 

To work out your final length measurement, measure along one end edge (shorter edge) of the joined blocks and add this measurement to the new number (example: 13” + 7½” = 20.5”).

This is the length you should cut your end borders.  

Attach the inside borders to their matching outer border. Do this by placing the inside and outside borders right sides together. Pin and stitch together along one of the long edges with a ¼” seam.  

Fold over and iron the seam open.    

Repeat this process for the remaining borders.  

Cut strips of batting to match each sewn together border. 

Next, we are going to secure the batting to the border fabric. This can be done in two ways. First option is placing the border fabric right side up on top of the batting, and with a long basting stitch, sew ¼” from the edge. Basting the long edges together will prevent them from moving. (Use a bobbin thread that will stand out for this step). The second option is to lightly spray temporary adhesive to the batting and then lay your fabric right side up on the batting.  

SIDE BORDERS:  

Place your project right side up on your work surface. Fold in half, short edge to short edge.  

 Mark the fold with a pin on both edges and then unfold.  Fold one of the side borders (long) right sides together, short edge to short edge. Mark the fold with a pin on the inside border edge. Unfold.  

Place the project on top of the side border (with the attached batting), have them right sides together and make sure the raw edge of the runner is matching up with the raw edge of the inside border strip. Also, match up the centre pins together (that we marked earlier). Pin together.  

We now need to stitch them together. The trick with stitching the borders on is that you don’t want to sew into the seams as this can later create pleats in the fabric or the mitred border just won’t turn out right. To begin, sink your needle right into the corner stitching, but still in between those two stitching lines, and begin stitching. Finish the stitching in the opposite corner and remember, DO NOT stitch into the seam. Please see the photos below. 

 

If you used basting stitches on your border, remove them now. 

If you used spray adhesive, you will not have stitching the whole length of your border. You will need to draw a line on both ends of the border, and then use these lines as a trimming guide to remove the batting from the seam allowance. Simply just match a ruler up with the stitching you have just done and use a pen to make the marking. Trim back the batting from the seam allowance, being careful not to cut any of the stitching. Please see photos below. 

Fold over and iron the side border down neatly. 

Repeat the same process for the second side border. 

 

END BORDERS:  

Place your wall hanging right side up on your work surface.  

Fold the excess fabric from the side borders up against the stitching and out of the way. Pin them in place so they don’t move back.  

When folded back you will notice that the stitching doesn’t go into the seams. 

You do not need to fold the project in half to find the centre, as you can just use the seam in between the two blocks as the centre point. You can pin the centre if you like. 

Fold one of the end borders (short) right sides together, short edge to short edge. Mark the fold with a pin on the inside border edge. Unfold. 

Place the project on top of the end border (with the attached batting). Have them right sides together and make sure the raw edge of the wall hanging is matching up with the raw edge of the inside border strip. Also, match up the centre pins together (that we marked earlier). Pin and stitch together. Again, make sure that we DO NOT stitch into the seams on the blocksSink your needle right into the corner stitching but still in between those two stitching lines. You can actually sink the needle down right at the end of the side border stitching so they meet up.  

If you used basting stitches on your border, remove them now.  

If you used spray adhesive, you will not have stitching the whole length of your border. You will need to draw a line on both ends of the border, and then use these lines as a trimming guide to remove the batting from the seam allowance. Simply just match a ruler up with the stitching you have just done and use a pen to make the marking. Trim back the batting from the seam allowance, being careful not to cut any of the stitching. Please see photos below.   

Fold over and iron the side border down neatly. 

Unpin the excess fabric from the side borders. 

Repeat the same process for the second end border. 

Iron all of the excess from the inside borders so they are nice and even. Please see photos below. 

 

CREATING THE MITRED BORDER CORNERS: 

Have your wall hanging right side facing up on your work surface.  

Fold an end border on top of a side border, right sides together. Try and match up the borders perfectly. Pin these two borders together. This will keep them in place and from moving while stitching.  

 

Make sure you have the little corner seam from the blocks flipped open and flat.  

With a ruler against the folded edge, mark a line for the corner point of stitching and across the border fabric and batting. If you have a striped border, place some pins along this marked line for matching up the stripe when stitching. 

The stitching of a mitred corner sometimes requires a couple of attempts to get it absolutely correct and sitting flat. Stitch from the corner point of stitching right along the marked line and finishing the stitching on the outer edges of the borders.  

Unfold the wall hanging and check to see that the mitred corner has worked.  

Fold over again and trim the excess batting from the ends of the borders.  

Trim back the seam allowance to ¼” and iron the seam open.  

Repeat the same process above for the remaining three corners.  

  

Trim the edges of the wall hanging to ensure they are all even and the same width.  

OPTIONAL: topstitch the inside borders.  

 

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1 comment

Dorothy Law

Dorothy Law

Hi there, I just want to leave you this to convey my thanks and appreciation on these instructions and videos. Living in a remote area and not knowing anyone in a town consisting of mainly old aged fossicking miners I don’t have a great deal of company. And these days we aren’t game to travel anywhere now.
However, reading and watching on here gives me great pleasure and is explained wonderfully. I really do need to get my printed sorted I’m missing so much …. and at 73 I need to make the most of what I have. Again, thanks and enjoy your day from Outback Nowhere Australia lol 😆 Dorothy

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